Pizza in Naples: where to eat it, what to order and how to eat it
In Naples pizza is not just a dish: it is a daily ritual, cheap and for everyone. The art of the Neapolitan pizzaiuolo (pizza maker) has been on UNESCO's heritage list since 2017. Here is which pizza to order, where to find the historic pizzerias and how to eat it like a Neapolitan.
At a glance
- The classics
- Margherita (tomato, fiordilatte or buffalo mozzarella, basil) and marinara (tomato, garlic, oregano, no cheese)
- Where
- Via dei Tribunali, Forcella and the Historic Centre for the historic pizzerias; good pizzerias in Chiaia, Mergellina and Vomero too
- Queues
- At the famous pizzerias you take a number at the door and wait: go early, before 12:30 or 19:30
- Street pizza
- Pizza a portafoglio (folded in four) and pizza fritta (fried pizza), to eat as you walk
Which pizza to order
- Margherita: tomato, mozzarella (fiordilatte or buffalo), basil and olive oil. It is the yardstick for every pizzeria.
- Marinara: tomato, garlic, oregano and olive oil, no cheese. The oldest, and the favourite of many Neapolitans.
- Pizza fritta: a disc of dough filled with ricotta, cicoli (pork cracklings), provola cheese and tomato, then fried. It was born after the war as the poor man's pizza.
- Pizza a portafoglio: a small pizza folded in four, to eat in the street. It costs little and is perfect between one visit and the next.
Neapolitan pizza has a high, soft rim (the cornicione) and a thin, moist centre: you eat it with a knife and fork or, as many Neapolitans do, folded like a little book.
The historic pizzerias
In the Historic Centre, between Via dei Tribunali and Forcella, you will find some of the most famous names: L'Antica Pizzeria da Michele, which makes only margherita and marinara, and the historic pizzerias on Via dei Tribunali such as Sorbillo and Di Matteo, also famous for its fried pizza. In Materdei, near the Sanità, there is Starita; in Chiaia, Brandi, linked to the legend of the margherita dedicated to the queen in 1889; in Mergellina, 50 Kalò.
Tip: the most famous pizzerias have long queues. Take a number at the door, then go for a walk: tables free up quickly because in Naples pizza is eaten fast. Or choose a neighbourhood pizzeria: you can eat well almost anywhere in the city.
How much it costs
Pizza in Naples is still cheap compared with the rest of Italy: a margherita at the historic pizzerias generally costs just a few euros, and pizza a portafoglio even less. Prices vary from place to place: check them on the menu.
After the pizza
- Spaccanapoli and San Gregorio Armenoa stone's throw from Via dei Tribunali
- Naples Underground (Napoli Sotterranea)in Piazza San Gaetano, on Via dei Tribunali
- Street foodcuoppo, frittatina, taralli
Frequently asked questions
What is the most famous pizza in Naples?
The margherita: tomato, mozzarella, basil and olive oil. Many Neapolitans, however, prefer the marinara, without cheese.
How do you avoid the queues at the historic pizzerias?
Go early, before 12:30 for lunch or 19:30 for dinner, take a number at the door and wait: your turn comes round quickly.
Where to stay near the historic pizzerias
202 places to stay in the Historic Centre on Napolibnb.it, the Naples holiday-rental portal: you contact the host directly, with no booking fees. Every listing shows its official CIN code.
